Keskese, Eritrea – The Ancient Pre-Aksumite City of Stone

Hidden in the rugged highlands of Eritrea’s Debub Region, just a short journey from the town of Senafe, lies Keskese — a fascinating archaeological site that offers a glimpse into one of the Horn of Africa’s earliest civilizations. Believed to date back to the pre-Aksumite period, Keskese is a treasure trove for history lovers, archaeologists, and travelers seeking to explore Eritrea’s deep cultural heritage.

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A Forgotten Capital of an Ancient Kingdom

Keskese is thought to have been a major political and cultural center between 500 BCE and 500 CE, long before the rise of the famous Aksumite Empire. Archaeologists believe it may have served as a regional capital, playing a key role in the trade routes that connected the Eritrean highlands to the Red Sea ports like Adulis.

The ruins at Keskese reflect a society with advanced stone masonry skills, impressive architectural planning, and a complex social structure.

Towering Stelae and Sacred Structures

One of the most striking features of Keskese is its collection of stelae — tall, monolithic stone pillars that rise from the earth like silent sentinels of the past. These stelae, some reaching several meters in height, were likely erected to mark important graves or to commemorate significant events and leaders.

In addition to the stelae, the site contains the remains of stone foundations, tombs, and ceremonial platforms. The craftsmanship of the masonry suggests a highly skilled workforce and a culture that placed strong emphasis on religious and political symbolism.

A Link to Metera and the Aksumite World

Keskese shares cultural and architectural similarities with Metera, another important archaeological site located just a few kilometers away. Both sites exhibit stone inscriptions and artifacts that indicate active interaction with the early Aksumite state and perhaps even earlier civilizations along the Red Sea coast.

Scholars believe that Keskese may have been part of a network of allied or competing city-states that laid the groundwork for the emergence of the Aksumite Empire.

A Scenic Highland Setting

Beyond its historical significance, Keskese offers visitors spectacular views of Eritrea’s highland landscapes. Located at an elevation of over 2,000 meters, the surrounding countryside is a patchwork of rolling hills, terraced farms, and traditional stone villages. The cool climate makes it an enjoyable stop for travelers exploring southern Eritrea.

Visiting Keskese

Keskese is located near Senafe, about 135 km south of Asmara. The site can be visited as part of a day trip that also includes Metera, offering a deeper understanding of the region’s ancient past. While the ruins are partially excavated, many areas remain untouched, giving the site a raw and authentic atmosphere.

Visitors are advised to explore with a knowledgeable local guide, who can explain the significance of the stelae, the layout of the city, and the historical connections between Keskese and the Red Sea trade.

Why Keskese Matters

Keskese is more than just a collection of stones — it is a key chapter in the story of Eritrea’s ancient civilizations. It offers proof of advanced engineering, complex society, and rich cultural exchange in the Horn of Africa long before the better-known empires of the region rose to prominence.

For travelers with a passion for archaeology, history, and off-the-beaten-path destinations, Keskese is a must-see. It is a place where the echoes of the past still linger in the mountain air, waiting to be rediscovered.